Following the successful edition in Milan (https://www.mido.com/en/wmido/single/Milan-and-Paris-the-fashion-milestone-events-part-I/39031), the ready-to-wear shows for S/S 2023 passed on the baton to Ville Lumière. Here, too, was an event that caused a stir with initiatives that focused both on content and the show aspect. Let’s find out how, through the key proposals of some of the designers.
Nicolas Di Felice focuses on practicality with items that perform more than one function. A prime example comes with the shirts which have built-in straps for easy carrying over the shoulder.
Maria Grazia Chiuri takes inspiration from perhaps the most famous woman of the sixteenth century: Catherine de’ Medici. Corsets are back, along with lace and bows, for a new sensuality. Black and floral patterns are hot for next S/S, without ever forgetting the connection with the past.
Dries Van Noten
Black is back: this seems to be the unusual claim from a designer who is generally known for his love of colour. The outsize jackets, ultra-long net tops and skirts are all offered in black. But, in the end, he gives in to a touch of colour with floral prints, blue sequins and pink slip dresses
Yves Saint Laurent
The minimalism of Anthony Vaccarello always harks back to the Maison’s past, particularly the tubular sheath dress worn by dancer Martha Graham in her solo ‘Lamentation’, so beloved by Yves Saint Laurent himself.
There’s an abundance of padded shoulders (a distinctive feature that Vaccarello is responsible for having brought back into fashion) and leather trench coats.
The English designer presents lots of tailored proposals in Paris, with suits consisting of waistcoat and shorts or shirt, tailored jacket and trousers.
If the aim was to be on everyone’s lips, mission accomplished. The show finale saw a semi-nude Bella Hadid appear, followed by two technicians who spray-painted a long white dress onto her body, thanks to an instant liquid spray composed of cotton fibre and synthetic materials suspended in a polymer solution.
Creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli wants to transmit the idea of “democratic” fashion. This is why, at the end of his show, he decided to release the models from the Carreau du Temple venue to mix with the general public.
The fashion company created a surreal atmosphere in a hangar next to the airport of Roissym, filled for the occasion with mud. It was a decidedly unusual location for the show that took place among puddles, swollen faces and logo-ed gumshields. A chaotic and unbridled event acted as the fil rouge: the models wore ballet pumps, women in evening gowns shuffled down the catwalks... The designer seemed to be transmitting the message that fashion has no limits.
The leitmotif here was a game of proportions: Nicolas Ghesquiere brought together the infinitely huge and the infinitely tiny. Much attention was also paid to the maison’s symbolic icons: a lock, a metallic detail from the famous trunk, a buckle, a zip...
Miuccia Prada’s fashion unfurls under the aegis of practicality, and cannot be detached from reality. Pockets mark out their own space, clothing is classic and jackets are tailored. At the same time, Miuccia’s fashion offers up unexpected details and crafting.Ph. Dior